Pearls & Pastries

Culture Chanel Exhibit; MOCA Shanghai 

I always find it interesting to go in to the minds of other designers to discover their influences and inspirations. It does not take much to affect a designer and especially after the John Galliano and Alexander McQueen incidents of late, demonstrate that we are "fragile artistic creatures"  prone to snap under stress or flourish within recognition.  This year, Chanel came to Shanghai and displayed her wares at the Shanghai Contemporary Art Museum in People's Park.

Below are some of my favorites:

Karl Lagerfeld "Coromandel" coat inspired by Chinese screens 1996-1997 Fall/Winter

Coromandel Eye shadow Palette 2005

Mosaic Encrusted evening gown

Variations on the Classic Wool Jacket

Costume Design

Afterward, contrary to the exhibit, I met some coworkers for dinner at an industrial style restaurant. Table No.1 is housed within a renovated warehouse cum hotel called the Waterhouse by local design firm Neri & Hu. It was Shanghai "restaurant week"---whatever that means because we didn't exactly eat at discounted prices, but none the less it was nice to have a taste at a special menu. All in all it made for a very French night. 

Lobby at Waterhouse

Lobby and Lobby Bar at Waterhouse

Reception Desk at Waterhouse

Table No. 1 Restaurant; clockwise from left:
Me, Miki, Santi, Genny

Starter Course: Duck Foie Gras 

Second Course: White Fish and Squid Ink Rice

Miki's Second Course: Steak Tenderloin and Potatoes

Third Course: Some type of Sorbet and fruit

Genny's Third Course: Pineapple, Cream, and Carmelized Sugar

Frustrations & Analyzations

This post is inspired by a recent report by China Daily newspaper about the disproportionate representation of modern and traditional culture. Unfortunately, I think the issue goes deeper than that. Here is an excerpt but you can read more about the report here.

"We have emphasized our traditional culture to an extreme extent in the past decade, but we don't have a strong voice in international dialogues," Yi Junqing, director of the Central Compilation and Translation Bureau, said during a press conference for the release of the Annual Report on China's Cultural Soft Power Research (2010).

I can attest by saying that since my stay here I really do not know more than maybe two liberal-minded young people. This is not to say that they don't have fun, but just that their goals and beliefs are traditional.  I think this is the biggest difference between Chinese and American youth. Chinese have a very ingrained sense of following and obedience and they lack a diverse life experience.  Therefore if I may boldly conclude, Chinese then develop a provincial outlook on life because that's all they know.

In fact if I can go on a bit of an interesting tangent: the word for problem or trouble; wenti 问题, is the same as the word for question.
The word for learn; xue 学, is also the same as the word for imitate.


It may just be a coincidence, but it's particularly frustrating because, my Mandarin is far from perfect, so either I can't find someone who's English is good enough for me to chat with; or I find someone's who's English is good enough but there's nothing to talk about.  I love old things, but you can only talk about it so much before you feel dull, bored, and like you've aged 10 years during the conversation.  

  Along with many other things, China has yet to develop a current culture embracing it's new international standing as a power-player.   China is still observing, imitating, and reproducing foreign ideas. In a recent post called "From Communitsts to Consumerists" I also mentioned the obsession that the majority of Chinese have with brands. I suppose I could look deeper in to this as representing a desire for quality because there is a lack of quality control on the mainland---and so they look to foreign brands. But I hope, hope, hope that this will change and the country will look to establishing itself domestically.

Home for the Holidays

I was going to make it home for the holidays (Chinese Lunar New Year) after all, but so where a ton of other Asians. This is the line to check-in for Air China Economy class at Shanghai Pu Dong  Airport. 

Anyone see a counter nearby?! The line was so long it wrapped into the entrance hall. However, the flight was operated by Japan's ANA so the crowd was surprisingly well-behaved. I don't know if the same could be said for an all-Chinese line of passengers.

So after a canceled and rescheduled flight, I also had a 4 hour lay-over in Tokyo's Narita Airport...but what would have normally been an  unpleasant waste of time turned out to be quite entertaining. For one, there are the Day Rooms and Showers for you to primp and prep, followed by abundant duty free shopping for those in need of mochi indulgence, a wi-fi lounge area, and a little novelty I wanted to try called an oxygen bar. I chose the orange blossom, eucalyptus, and citrus lime sampler. Not bad. But maybe not something I would try again. I just felt I wanted to "cleanse" my lungs after months of breathing in Shanghai's traffic exhaust, but an oxygen bar? Totally frivolous.  Air is the last thing on earth that is still free.

Tokyo Narita Airport Dayrooms & Showers

Tokyo Narita Airport Wi Fi Lounge

Tokyo Narita Airport JUKO oxygen bar

Tokyo Nartia Airport Origami Shop

Tokyo Narita Airport Fatty Tuna Snack

And Finally, A Lucky Continental Airlines Exit Row Seat!

From Communist to Consumerists

Everyone knows China's economy is growing but my reaction to this fact is both positive and negative. It's great that over 1 billion people will have the chance to earn a decent wage.  It's wonderful that this country will have peace from war and military occupation.  Even better, China's growing international presence will grant Chinese citizens the privilege of traveling abroad freely without being denied visas for fear of espionage or illegal stay.

 

What scares me is the alarming rate at which China is growing and the scramble for jobs, homes, schools, and status that many Chinese have embarked on. Across the street from my office building on Shanghai's Nanjing Road is this monstrosity of a Louis Vuitton marketing campaign. [See picture below] 

 

 

 

I can not help but think, this ostentatious eyesore would have been the laughing stock and criticism of many if put in any other city---like New York for example. Who do the people at LV think they are?! Well in China, they are pretty much the cool kids table in a high school cafeteria. Everyone wants to be branded by them because it will mean that they have 'arrived.'  This goes the same for other leading luxury brand names, I just used LV as an example because they staged their campaign in my path.

If it were any other country's materialistic culture, I don't think I would be as worried. But China represents a lot of the world population---roughly 20%. So will China's rise be for the better or worse of our future? Have we created a monster in pushing China to become more capitalistic and less communistic?  I admit my inner doomsayer is craving to read up on the latest of these issues during my time off over Spring Festival. I hope you other doomsayers out there will do the same.  Here are my recommendations with content-appropriate titles that will send chills down your spine...

 

Johnathan Watts', When a Billion Chinese Jump: How China Will Save Mankind---or Destroy It

Karl Gerth, As China Goes, So Goes the World: How Chinese Consumers are Transforming Everything

Martin Jacques, When China Rules the World:The End of the Western World and the Birth of a New Global Order

The Elderly Elf

This old man sat next to me the other day on my morning commute and he had the cutest little ear warmers on attached to his iPod headphones. I don't know if they were homemade or store bought because I haven't yet seen these around.  I love how he also happened to be color coordinated with his outfit whether he meant it or not. We got off at the same stop and I totally went paparazzi on him.

Little Things That Matter

In honor of the new year and 01.11.11, I am listing 11 of the top things I hate + love about my new city of Shanghai. It's a bit lengthy but hope you enjoy. Here goes...


11 Things I Hate !!

11. Cigarette Smoke (Air Pollution)
I have a fairly high tolerance for cigarette smoke. I have sat through endless smoke-filled dinners and outings with friends.  I also agree that it destresses and goes well with an afternoon coffee or late night drink.  After awhile you do forget the smoke is there, but what I can't stand is smelling like it afterward---especially my hair! These days I've begun to notice that I will smell like smoke even if I haven't gone to a restaurant or bar. Cigarette smoke is just everywhere: from the guy at the bus stop, to the couple walking in front of me on the sidewalk, to the poor sap in the stairwell at work trying to take a warm cigarette break. My hair soaks it all up.  This on top of the exhaust fumes that permeate Shanghai's air on bad days is enough to give a girl lung cancer by association.


10. Silent Vespas (Crazy Traffic)
Never have I felt so neglected as I have being a pedestrian in Shanghai. Automobiles just don't care about you! I swear those damn Vespas or as they call them here: Motorcars and Motorbikes, turn off the engine and coast to save gas. They're SILENT and they're fast. Then there's the bus that really will leave while you're half on or off if you're not quick enough. I've already had it happen a few times and the driver gives you the annoyed look like you purposely tried to get stuck in the door.

 9. No Central Heating ( Crappy Insulation)
There are a million gadgets here to keep warm from a space heater to an electric blanket to heat lamps in the shower. One wonders why we wouldn't just spend that money and energy in to installing central heating.


8. Watered-Down Cocktails
Stick with beer or wine if you go out in China or even Hong Kong. The drinks are mostly mixers. 


7. Squat Toilets ( Bad Plumbing)
For all the glitz and glamor that Shanghai is obsessed with---it all goes away when you walk in to the bathroom and there's a squat toilet. Plus, I really like to flush my toilet paper.


6. Traditional Ideas
Most young people don't move out until they're married.  "Fuerdi" or children of the nouveau rich let their parents determine future spouses in order to protect their inheritance.  Most people I meet diligently put their savings towards that house or car  rather than broadening their minds through a new activity, travel, or continuing education.

5. Passiveness + Obedience

The Chinese are a cunning bunch, but sometimes they can also be a bit like robots.  Maybe it's instilled in them at a young age from authoritarian administration, or maybe they feel that they are powerless to change the status quo. 


4. No Concept of Privacy 
Bless those ladies at the bank that feel they are helping when they hover while I withdraw my money. Then there's also the store clerk that won't leave me alone. There is no such thing as "I've got it" in this middle kingdom.

3. No Concept of Personal Space
I'll admit it. I can't stand strangers touching me, bumping me, and especially leaning on me. Rush hour is not fun in Shanghai when you're literally butt to butt with the person behind you and they don't seem to mind whatsoever...

2. No Concept of Normal Safety Standards
You should really wear a helmet and your child needs a car seat...especially on the Vespa.


1. Rules Aren't Enforced (Laissez-Faire Attitude)
Expect nothing. No guarantees. No standards. What you get is what you get.


11 Things I Love !!


11. Good Cheap Food
The food is fresh, good, and varied. Delivery is free, but your plastic bag is not!  


10. Cheap Labor
Overpopulation means a fight for jobs which can be as specialized as bespoke clothes or furniture to as basic as a cleaning lady, that cooks, grocery shops and does laundry.  If there's a need, someone will do it!


9. Paying my bills at the convenience store 
Perfect for a procrastinator like me, or someone that doesn't have a Chinese bank account yet.


8. Cell Phone Service Everywhere
The elevator, the subway, you name it---there's service.


7. Being Part of the Majority
No more "ni hao" or "konichiwa" cat calls.  Buying make up is a breeze and I don't worry about who cuts my hair.


6. Super Modern Transportation
One refillable transportation pass is usable on all metro lines, buses, and taxis.  There are TVs everywhere to lighten up that boring commute. The Maglev will get you to the airport in 8 minutes! 


5. Chinese Humor
Those crazy Chinese! They're just a quirky, goofy bunch. 

4. Chinese Hospitality
Splitting the bill doesn't exist here and very few things are considered inconveniences among friends. China is a collective society.  What comes around goes around.

3. Cheap Fake DVDs & Free Downloads
Watch anything, even if it's still in the theaters for about 7 RMB ($1.06) or less. Download all the music and pirated software you want. Who cares? China doesn't. 

2. The Emerging Contemporary Art Scene
The market and talent are here. Foreign investment has started to trickle in; the government just needs to lighten up a bit. Beijing is still the major arty city here, but if in Shanghai visit the studios in former opium dens at 696 Weihai Road or at the old silk factory at M50.


1. Rules Aren't Enforced (Lassiez Faire )Attitude
China is still a developing nation. They haven't gotten around to establishing standards for everything yet--so for the most part people just wing it. Everything is negotiable and there's a 50:50 chance things will go your way with a little persuasion. 

Welcome 2011 | Life is What You Make It

As the new year rolls in, I look back at everything that happened opposed to making new resolutions.  I believe you have to examine the past before you can prepare for the future.  Even then, I don't make a specific resolution. I have goals, but they are always there and usually take more than one year to achieve.  No need to rush.  There was a lot of transition in 2010---a little too much at times but I believe I ended up where I needed to be in the  end. I always do seem to take the long way.

This was my very, very first holiday season away from home. I anticipated it to be hard, but it wasn't that bad.  I found people to hang out with and did small things to honor the occasion.  The atmosphere in China is very different for Western holidays so they kind of all just quietly came and went with out much commotion. The "holidays" presented themselves as what they essentially are: just another day.  It's not that they were suppressed in any way---the country just attaches no meaning to the holidays, the people have no childhood sentiments, and the traditions have become another import.  Christmas specifically is a fashionable holiday where young people have an excuse to shop their hearts out. This reconfirmed in me the oh-so-cliche proverb "life is what you make it."  It is the meaning and memories we attach to people, places, objects, and days(events) that make them special. Everything is the same everywhere.