The Cantonese Conquest

This is my street, Yong Kang Lu which translates to literally Road of Eternal Health. It's a densely packed strip of the French Concession which is half new development and half older infrastructure. To my favor, one of the better Cantonese restaurants in town is right on this strip. This is Yi Sheng Yue Wei or also known as Eason Restaurant. 

It's a tiny little place that is split in to two (very low) levels and seats about 20. Nevertheless, the place is clean and well-managed with proper Cantonese cooks in the kitchen. It's packed every night and so they decided to expand---but to where? 

Across the street, naturally! Here is Yi Sheng Jou Xiang or Eason Cantonese Congeee which is primarily a Congee (rice porridge) shop because they have no full kitchen. However, you can still order off the full menu and the servers will just run the food across the street from the original Eason.

I thought the desire to expand despite the tricky logistics was quite ambitious already---until the other day I saw this:

I think there shall be an Eason 3 (although with no round windows this time). I'm wondering what specialty food this one will serve. Can't wait!

Displacement

Working as an architectural designer in China, I take notice to plenty of construction happening and also equally as much displacement. At the moement, there are two major displacements occurring along Wei Hai Road in the Jin An district, not too far from my office.

The former Minlin Middle School in the distance

The first is the Minli Middle School built circa 1920 and donated by the Qiu family who were wealthy socialites. When it was time to redevelop the area as Dazhongli, the government literally put the whole building on rails and moved it brick by brick from the center of the construction site, to the edge of the road. Supposedly, the school yard's centenarian Magnolia tree was moved as well--but I didn't get up close. Alas, this is how an architecturally significant period piece survived among major development.

696 Weihai Road

The second does not have so happy an ending. It involves the eviction of countless tenants, mostly artists, photographers and LGBT residents from the enclave at 696 Weihai Road which has been used as working studios, galleries, and community centers. The area is run-down, dingy, dark, and a little scary at night. In other words: authentic. They are old buildings with low rent that creatives and non-profits can afford.  According to a WSJ article, this enclave is the only non-government owned creative cluster in Shanghai unlike the more well-known Redtown and M50. However, after seeing the traffic that 696 was recieving, the government wished to 'develop' this area as well in to a branded creative center. Most residents are outraged because even if they are 'invited' back after the renovation, their rent will undoubtedly be much higher than they can afford. Others see it as a breach on creative freedom and an instutionalization of art. To the contrary of the WSJ article, the farewell party actually took place on April 30th as a collective open house and the final eviction on May 20th. Yeah, it was awhile ago, but it took me until now to load and post the photos to share with you (my most appreciated readers).

Second Floor Corridor decorated with hand-drawn motifs

Ground Floor Corridor

Painting of a hung artist that continues to play

Laser -cutting studio

Maliang's photography studio all packed up. 

 For a look at the recreated installation of his studio, see my earlier post on the Shanghai Biennale here. And for examples of Maliang's ( also Maleonn in English) work and thinking, see his article for Camera Obscura here.

Maliang and Me

Me and Cheryl

Refreshments at the Farewell Open House

The neighboring lane on Wei Hai road.

So here's to a new beginning for every end. May the tenants of 696 spread their seeds of creativity to other yet to be discovered areas. I myself sometimes wonder if I relocated, or was unwittingly displaced by a poor job market and restless curiosity. Either way, it did turn out for the better.

The Jumeirah Himalaya Hotel

Smack in the middle of Pudong,  in a location that is so vastly spacious that it is close to absolutely nothing more than other big buildings designed to draw crowds(i.e. Shanghai New International Expo Center) ---rises the newest Jumeirah Himalaya Hotel. This is a building out there to make an impression.  After all, it caters to the people that come to Shanghai for only a short period of time like a meeting and maybe never even make it over to Puxi.

 If it was any other hotel---it could have faded in to obscurity like other awful airport and conference hotels, but this is designed by world-renowned architect Arata Isozaki and the first Jumeriah in China, from a brand that boasts 7 star facilities such as the Burj Al Arab in Dubai.

The Jumeriah Himalaya seeks to be the new cultural hub in conjunction with SNIEC and anchoring Pudong from the abyss that surrounds it. As such, The Himalaya offers 401 rooms, 5 restaurants, an art gallery, 1,100 seat Daguan theater, conference space, rooftop infinity garden, 24 hour fitness, pool, and a slew of luxury shops.  Outside is an austere landscape (rumored to be designed by his wife)  of wheat stalks to contrast with the dramatic facade.  We were not able to get up close but, the amorphous shape is representative of a forest and originally supposed to be steel until the cost of steel rose 10 fold. Now it is concrete.

Our studio team ate at the Arte Cafe on the day of the visit for their lunch buffet. Not the best, not the worst but then we toured the most important part of every hotel---the rooms!

My coworker Miki at Arte Cafe

Deluxe Room (standard room)

Premiere Room

The Premiere Room was really quite strange (and probably a nightmare to layout) because it curved around the hotel's central "jade atrium and reflection garden".   Furthermore, the windows were overlaid with fixed metal shutters forming the building's exterior facade! A beautiful room, but a poor view with the feeling of being behind bars. Don't stay at the Premiere Room if you want a view.  The other rooms were fine though. The Grand Deluxe Suite's tub was my favorite and I don't even take baths.

Grand Deluxe Suite

Finally here is the grand lobby with it's "feng shui" elements, giant LCD screen ceiling, emblazoned scripture, and antique altar center piece. What do you think? Does this hotel make the impression it seeks and would you stay here? I've already heard it being "too Chinese" from the Chinese, ha.  I would love to hear your comments from abroad.
More pictures from the Jumeirah's own website here.

Chinese Search Engine Copies Google

Being in China, I am now also a user of Baidu, the closest competition to Google here. Baidu maps is actually quite useful because it also combines the features of HopStop.com. The site will concisely tell you what train or bus to take, where to get off, how far you have to walk, and approximately how long the whole process will take. It usually offers you a few options based on travel time versus number of transfers plus up to date traffic conditions. Baidu maps is a total necessity for someone unfamiliar with Chinese cities.

Then, one day over the May 1 Labor Day holiday, I went on Baidu to find a half-assed alteration in Baidu's logo in order to commemorate the holiday. Not only did the altered logo look uninspiringly like clip art---but this is Google's thing! As an American, I was outraged. Why must China copy everything and turn out a less than adequate replica?! I would like to boycott Baidu in protest...but then I would have to rely on vague street maps and unkindly cab drivers...what's a girl to do.

I love my American boys

I think I take pride in being the minority. The mis-fits and misunderstood. Here in China I am the minority. However, so are a handful of other Americans whether or not they are conspicouous or inconspicous.

 

Lately I have found it absolutely adorable to see lost American boys (you know by their shoes...Europeans always wear leather).  Usually, he'll be about a foot taller than the surrounding  crowd--slightly pinker in complexion and towheaded--glancing down and around at his iPhone map.  I just want to take their hand and lead them to the nearest pub or sports bar. We can drawl on together in our monotone accents, drink beer, eat fries without mayonaise and demand an excessive amount of napkins. 

Nigirisushi Balls Meet Queen Sea Big Shark

I was excited about the night. I was finally going to see some of China's home-grown rock bands. I have constantly heard that Beijing has the better of the music and art scene in China. It's got that reckless edge that the Shanghainese are just too "sophisticated and gentile" to do well.  Well, tonight Beijing 's was in town.

 

So a coworker and I started the night in TianZiFang for Japanese. A platter of sashimi on ice, a row of nigiri balls, duck salad, and a glass of plum wine later, I was good to go. Just around the corner was the newly renovated MAO Livehouse.

 

 

 

Playing tonight was one of Beijing's more popular Indie Electro Rock darlings known as Queen Sea Big Shark. Immediately noticeable is their perfectly styled rocker image and bleach blonde femme fatale lead vocal.  The band's got style for sure and watching them perform; they've got enthusiasm. However, I'm not so sure about lead singer Fu Han's vocal ability. She seems to inject the charisma and punk rock attitude that her band mate's anchor with actual talent.

 

 

 

Best said from this article excerpt found here from Rock in China:

 

'Musically among the most sophisticated bands in Beijing, Queen Sea Big Shark are immensely focused in both their song writing and their performances. Their stage act displays a ferocious discipline that consists of Cao Pu’s guitar (one of the best guitarists in Beijing) backed by an incredibly tight rhythm section. All of this control anchors the band in a way that throws singer Fu Han’s out-of-control gyrations and frantic singing into sharp relief."

 

Basically without them, the lead would just be a screaming mess of unintelligible words, and without her they would just be a couple of musicians with no unique edge... 

 

Anyways, all together a good night that somehow all revolved around the ocean and fish.

 

Check out their music page below here.

I recommend the E-Ocean track.

Spring is in the Air

So next to my office is West Gate Mall 梅龙广场，which usually has a lot of promotions in their central atrium for new products. Most of them are tacky and over-done advertising campaigns.  However, this last Friday Guerlain was there for their new fragrance.  I must say I have never seen a more interesting pop-up store.  It kind of makes me want to go in to event and set design! The concept was well executed, engaging, and elegant.  Here are some shots below I haphazardly snapped on my camera phone ( I lost my SonyEricsson so these shots do not come out half as nice as they would have):

This is the honey bee room filled with golden balloons and propelled by mounted ceiling fans

This was the showcase tent 

In the showcase tent are all the perfumes that Guerlain has in its collection. There were special atomizers tubes to diffuse the perfumes perfectly so you could only smell it if you put your nose right up close.  The ingredients that go in to Guerlain's perfumes were also displayed for you to smell and learn about.   I tried to see if I could detect one ingredient from the other in the perfumes. In the center is a circular booth for you to sit if you decide to customize your own scent.

The make up pavilion constructed of illuminated sheer black fabric

An aerial shot of all three

  

My First Chinese Beauty Treatment

So after 5 months here in Shanghai, my skin has withstood continuous exposure to a dry indoor heat, dense outdoor air pollution and cigarette smoke,  showers that are always a little too hot, and about 30 some hours of flight time. I thought my poor skin was due for some pampering.

I have noticed that the majority of Asian women have impeccably nice skin. Even-toned, dewy, white. What is their secret?! I decided to ask my landlord, a Shanghai-native and one with beautiful skin even at 40+. "I have been going to RUBIS for years! Here is their number," she said. "Many locations."

So I made an appointment at RUBIS for their most basic service and wow can I say I had the best spent 300RMB(about $46US) facial/eye-brow sculpting/full body massage/ micro-dermabrasian ever.  When I went for my appointment I was greeted by the receptionist and led to a waiting area where a skin consultant would offer recommendations see if you wanted to do any add-ons. I didn't.

Then, you're led to the locker room where you can store your things and change. Your beautician is waiting at the door for you when you leave. She is essentially your guide until your treatment is over. I had to go to the restroom before beginning and she led me through the maze of back hallways that are most Chinese malls. She---her name is Bo Bo, was waiting for me at the bathroom exit to lead me back the way I came less I get lost!

The facial began first with a back and leg massage which was most welcome after my deadline at work. Then you flip over and she puts a heat pack on your stomach to keep you nice and toasty while she cleans your face.  Afterwards you steams it and does a little micro-dermabrasion on problem areas.  Next, she does your eyebrows which I thought was a really nice touch because I've never heard of a place offering it as complimentary even though it's always something you need. Then she puts an exfoliating tonic (maybe gycolic acid?) on your skin and a mask. Bo Bo also gave a neck and shoulder massage while we waited for it to dry. Finally, she takes off the mask and gives me a moisturizer.

Bo Bo was absolutely amazing and multi-talented, but when I asked her for some recommendations on what was right for my skin--she hesitated and said it was best I ask the skin consultant. It was not her job to recommend. Only to execute. What kind of feudal thinking is that?! I thought. But then I remembered where I was.  China is divided in to this weird hierarchical society which really "puts people in their place" and discourages pro-activeness. Here was a prime example. Nevertheless, I thanked her and went to see the "skin consultant" after I was changed.

I'll be back at RUBIS and if ever you come to Shanghai, ladies you should too! It's totally worth it.

*The only down-side is that their staff does not speak much English nor is their website offered in English. However, their service pamphlet at the location is bilingual and translated very well.

Pearls & Pastries

Culture Chanel Exhibit; MOCA Shanghai 

I always find it interesting to go in to the minds of other designers to discover their influences and inspirations. It does not take much to affect a designer and especially after the John Galliano and Alexander McQueen incidents of late, demonstrate that we are "fragile artistic creatures"  prone to snap under stress or flourish within recognition.  This year, Chanel came to Shanghai and displayed her wares at the Shanghai Contemporary Art Museum in People's Park.

Below are some of my favorites:

Karl Lagerfeld "Coromandel" coat inspired by Chinese screens 1996-1997 Fall/Winter

Coromandel Eye shadow Palette 2005

Mosaic Encrusted evening gown

Variations on the Classic Wool Jacket

Costume Design

Afterward, contrary to the exhibit, I met some coworkers for dinner at an industrial style restaurant. Table No.1 is housed within a renovated warehouse cum hotel called the Waterhouse by local design firm Neri & Hu. It was Shanghai "restaurant week"---whatever that means because we didn't exactly eat at discounted prices, but none the less it was nice to have a taste at a special menu. All in all it made for a very French night. 

Lobby at Waterhouse

Lobby and Lobby Bar at Waterhouse

Reception Desk at Waterhouse

Table No. 1 Restaurant; clockwise from left:
Me, Miki, Santi, Genny

Starter Course: Duck Foie Gras 

Second Course: White Fish and Squid Ink Rice

Miki's Second Course: Steak Tenderloin and Potatoes

Third Course: Some type of Sorbet and fruit

Genny's Third Course: Pineapple, Cream, and Carmelized Sugar