Taking a train in China is pretty cheap (maybe a 10th the price of a plane ticket) and efficient yet not always the most comfortable for long journeys. There are many different categories of trains in China and I had only experienced some of the nicer modern ones going to Beijing. I was not too sure about this type T so I wanted the highest class seat available; a soft sleeper which gives you a bed in a private cabin with 3 other passengers and a toilet at the end of the hall. Photo courtesy of Chinatraintickets.net
I had it all planned out, however when I got to the ticket booth everything was sold out except for hard seats which is the lowest class on the train. I decided to settle for a soft sleeper ticket on a route the next morning--or so I thought. In my obsession to buy for Friday night, I neglected to notice the date should now be for SATURDAY morning and not Friday morning. I did not realize this until I attempted to board the train.
There was nothing else to do but play stupid with the ticket attendant and emphasize my foreigner status with broken Mandarin Chinese. The ticket attendant was unamused and ushered me to the side as he continued boarding the train. I was beginning to think I wasn't going to get on when he motioned for me to pass without punching my ticket. Relieved, I made my way to the train and entered the 13th car, 1st berth that was "supposed" to be mine. There was another young couple in the cabin with an adorable 4 month old baby. I asked them if the other bunks were taken and they said 'no'. I smiled and began to unload my things on one of the top bunks. Not long after pulling away from the station, the train attendants came around to collect tickets. Crap. I was already on the train and there was no way I was going to get off now without a fight and maybe some crocodile tears. I feigned surprise and embarrassment again at the incorrect date on my ticket. He looked doubtful and suggested I buy a new ticket if I wanted to stay in the cabin. I began cursing my imaginary friend that bought the wrong ticket and ( I swear I never knew I could do this on demand) cry. He told me to wait while he called over his superiors. The train manager also felt it would be best for me to buy another ticket. I did not want to waste another 245 RMB on a ticket for a train that I was already on when that could go towards something much more appealing--like a pair of shoes maybe. I argued that half the sleeper cabins were empty anyways since it was the morning and that the train would go to Dalian with or without me. Plus, I had no money on me to buy another ticket. The train manager remained poker-faced and replied that I could buy another ticket at Dalian when my party met me. He then asked me to collect my things and gave me a seat behind the bar in the restaurant car meant for employees. It turned out to be quite spacious and I was able to spread out and grade some student papers that I brought along while chatting with some of the ladies that worked there. I was good for now but still dreading arriving in Dalian for fear that they would make me buy another ticket. At least it would not be 245RMB though since technically I had no "sellable seat" on the train. When we arrive in Dalian, the train manager passes me on to another worker at the station and they exchange a few indecipherable words. This is it, I think. They're going to make me buy another ticket or pay a fine for hitchhiking. I follow him through some back hallways and up some stairs before he opens a door that leads to the general waiting hall. He beckons for me to exit and unceremoniously closes the door with out another word. Just like that I was free! I could not help but smile at the intimidating, bureaucratic exterior that all the train workers maintained, when all along they could care less about whether this confused foreigner followed the rules or not. I guess the Chinese can be communal in this way with their sympathy.
Alas, I was not so lucky on the train ride back which was maybe where I needed it more. Practically everything was sold out once again, so I had to buy the hard seats which I was trying to avoid all this time. Below is the midnight type T train from Dalian to Beijing arriving in Qinhuangdao at 1:02 AM.
There were literally people everywhere. In China you can also buy a standing ticket but most end up squatting along the aisles, cramming in to luggage storage areas, or in this case sharing with other kind passengers that actually bought seats. I, of course wanted what little room I had and did not share, but was touched by the consideration of those that did. Another example of a common ground.
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