One Last Look

Open-air cafe near Beixinqiao

China is one funky place I would like to return to. There's so much history but simultaneously so much development and both sides are struggling to preserve and create.  It's like the country's on one of those makeover TV shows and you want to see the follow up episode of "where are they now".  Did they get better or worse or stay the same?

I would like to see where everyone's lives take them. Rebecca, the Russian language teacher tells me she is planning to get pregnant next year and have a baby--maybe two since minorities aren't restricted by China's one child policy.

Rebecca and I at Beidaihe

 

 

Three of my students are going to study abroad. Vanessa and Tony are headed to Australia for college and Zhao Si Yue is going to live with a host-family in Canada for high school.  It will be the first any of them have ever set foot abroad.  I can't imagine taking a plunge like that and trying to somehow perform academically--but I am so excited for them. They're going to have such great stories.

Tony and I in Bedaihe

Vanessa and I in Beidaihe

Zhao Si Yue in Beijing's 798 Art District

Finally, I would like to see what new innovations and oddities the Chinese people turn up. Below is an elaborate fluorescent light fixture in the Beijing subway station. Fluorescent because of energy and cost-savings, but decorative because anything less would be too institutional. I like it.

Then there's also the nicotine patch vending machine at the Bird's Nest Stadium because that's one of the only rare places in China where smoking is actually prohibited. I think most societies would view the placement of such a machine as a bit tactless about a very serious addiction problem but not the Chinese. They locate it of course, right next to the other vending machines where any passer by--such as a kid may access nicotine patches.  I love China, and I hope to be able to come back many times over to see how she's doing.

The Next Big Thing

Freshmen Grade 1 Class 4

 So although my reasons are great and varied for going to China, teaching is the reason I was able to stay as long as I did.  I didn't think I would care as much as I did, but weeks after returning, I still think of my students.  There are just so many little things about American life that I wish I could teach them---show them.  I wish I could show them that life can be something else. It's not always regimented schooling, battered buildings, and the looming divide that gao kao---the college entrance exam creates for those left behind.

The average Chinese student is a robot.  They might as well live at school with the amount of time spent in the classroom studying and memorizing. Volunteering in the classroom is discouraged as it might create a disruption and so students wait to be called on.  Because most schools are over-crowded anyways, it is more orderly for students to remain in the same classroom and have teachers rotate.  I am assuming because the education levels of parents may vary that students are made to finish homework at school while supervised by a teacher.  All in all, students are in school probably a total of 10 hours a day Mondays through Fridays and usually Saturdays.  Furthermore, although my school was public, uniforms and short hair cuts were required and dating was forbidden.

High school is an awkward enough time as it is for teenagers, but to have all these restrictions is to create a prison for the mind and spirit. So much of their youth is encircled within the walls of academia.  It impedes independent thinking and creativity.  What does this mean for a generation of only children that already have two sets of grandparents and parents doting on them? I worry what this means for the country's desire to innovate and become the next super power.  They will need thinkers, activists, artists.  China needs to move beyond this mimicry and cultivate differences; innovation; change.

Most young people I think see this but are powerless to change it. They continue on this path established for them and those that can afford it choose to study abroad.  However in select students I see such hope and determination for a better future that I know something is stirring. While many will be limited by bureaucratic restrictions, I hope even more will find a way to surpass them and get to the other side.

Sophomore/Junior Grade 2 Class 5

Beijing Buddy

Before coming to China, I had so many theories (and misconceptions) of what Beijing would be like. As a child I had come with my uncle and cousin for a tour of the Summer Palace, The Forbidden City, and various other notable spots I'm sure.  I remember the city being cold, dirty, and sterile. Well, the first two  still apply, but having ditched the hotel rooms and tour bus I uncovered a city teeming with history and nationalism yet relentlessly modernizing.  I believe that it is possible to modernize without westernize and that China is developing its own renaissance so to speak. The first signs can be seen in contemporary art and architecture.  Thanks to a Beijing buddy I was able to get a more intimate slice of the city. This post will be about art and night life from a more localized perspective I hope.

The 798 Art District used to house many industrial factories before it was transformed in to a neighborhood of galleries, artisan shops, and restaurants.

A European bust of a man is covered with a Chinese, ceramic, floral pattern.

A cartoonish stainless steel sculpture by Xia Hang entitled It's Not Far features a funny little creature with propellers on his back.

 A stainless steel version of historical literary icon, Lao Zi by artist Zheng Lu is perforated using passages from his own works.  Lao Zi therefore becomes transparent yet still heavy.

String art decorates a tree outside a clothing shop.

 

An Art Noveau style defines an entrance to a  Spanish gallery...

while a more simple, rustic approach transforms a log in to steps for a shop.

Travel a little south to the Sanlitun neighborhood and you will find an awesome example of architecture as art. Opposite House by Japanese architect, Kengo Kuma is probably one of the most beautiful (interior) places I have ever seen in my life. This may be in part due to the uber expensive 98-room hotel also functioning as a rotating gallery space for artists.  Not to mention, the staff materialize out of thin air due to cleverly concealed doors and work stations.  I am beyond words, only that the Japanese really do aim for perfection.

Sanlitun, is also a popular night spot where a mixture of established clubs and dive bars converge in on each other.

My Beijing buddy is Sohith, a transplanted New York  designer in Beijing for the architect's playground that has become this city.  Although China holds great opportunity to build for the architecture industry, competition is fierce and the hours are way longer compared to the US.  How do you balance this? You go out even more to equalize work time and play time.

It's pretty easy to get in to places around here; there were no annoying lines, pretentious bouncers, or closing times it seems. Below is a roof top bar at dawn.

 Maybe I should have tried something more authentic for street food, but by then again, I already had my fill of Chinese and was really craving something more Western. Thank goodness they didn't screw it up.

The whole area of Sanlitun is only several blocks in total of alleys and streets but already a paradox in itself of class and crass.

Have You Eaten Yet?

Chinese food is a way of life.  Although China is a country that is developing it's economic and political stability, the majority of the population is still agricultural and remembers a time when famine existed.  Food is a staple of livelihood and meals (outside of the big cities) are almost always communal.  Hence, a common greeting when meeting someone after "how are you" is..."have you eaten yet?"

Below are some dumplings that I made at Ms. Geng's, a local English teacher's home. She made everything from scratch, even the reed mat that the dumplings are to be steamed on.  In her town, domestic skills are still standard for most women in addition to career skills to be competitive.

Although there is a market for a lot of packaged food and drinks, food made from scratch is still very important. Below is the scene at TESCO, one of the large chain supermarkets from Britain.  I thought it had a street market vibe albeit being indoors.

Below fresh peanut and sesame oil is made on the spot for customers.

Noodles, fried bread, and pastries are also all made behind the counter at the store daily.

Finally my favorite are the little steamed buns filled with sweet bean paste in the shapes of white peaches, pigs, and maybe a bear. 

 

Great Wall Beach Party

So in a recent post I talked about visiting Laolongtao or Old Dragon's Head with the other foreign teachers to see where the Great Wall begins.  Little did I know that the other side of the wall hosts a rave every year.  They even have a website that you can visit here.  I was skeptical about going at first because I'm not much of a raver and the gate closes by 10:30pm at my school so that means I have to climb over the dusty wall in the dark.  However,  I went with another foreign teacher Adam, from Hebei Normal University and his buddies Farkas (I thought he said F*$kers when he introduced himself) and Lucas.

 The party was actually fairly tame but it was nice to just be on the beach during a cool summer night.  You could rent a horse to ride around on the sand or watch the World Cup quarter finals between Argentina and Germany.  You couldn't go in the water though because they roped it off for people(men) to pee in. Yeah.

Please Stand By---and We're Back!

I know this post is a little after the fact, but thanks for standing by while I experienced technical difficulties after canceling my VPN service in preparation to return to the US.  Anyways,  Common Ground is back on line and I would like to finish recounting this chapter on China so for those of you that I don't see often, please stay tuned.

Reunions and Rehabilitated Residences

A primary reason for visiting Qingdao was to reunite with fellow foreign teachers who were placed on Huangdao, a city 30 minutes away by ferry.  The first night of the visit we stayed at a hostel called the YHA Old Observatory because it used be an observatory.  It's set on a hill top and has an amazing view of the city not to mention unlimited beer and free barbecue on weekends.  Some of the old astronomy equipment is still there so on clear nights you can gaze up in to the sky.

 Image courtesy of GraemeNicol via Flickr

I really appreciate the city's rehabilitation of historically significant buildings for use.  They do a good job of it. The next hostel we stayed at was Kaiyue Hostel closer to downtown.  It used to be an old church.  This was my favorite of the two. Check out more pictures on their website here.

 Image courtesy of Beijing07.wordpress.com

The private rooms are retro-fitted with pre-fab bathrooms that are kinda cool.

Here is an example of one of the private rooms.  We stayed in the triple.

Image courtesy of Kaiyue Hostel

 Image courtesy of Kaiyue Hostel

Staying at a hostel in China is surprisingly comfortable and affordable. They are a growing lodging trend  so many are newly renovated compared to low-budget hotels.  Also, the staff is usually competent in English and you will meet other traveling foreigners instead of Chinese tour groups. However, I would still recommend paying a little extra for the bathrooms ensuite.

The next evening we took the ferry across the bay to Shandong University on Huangdao for one last dinner. One thing that's great about eating with a lot of people is that you can order a lot of food.  The Shandong cuisine is mild in flavor and not too spicy with a focus on seafood.

From left to right: Lizzy, Jamie, Seth, Luke, Ryan, Jesse, Me, and Jim.